It’s the lightest device I’ve ever used and the auto locking against the locking carabiner is amazing. Designed with a specific geometry for sport climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes. Pros: ACCESSORIES. Your password must be at least 8 characters long. Additionally, the belay carabiner you use influences the amount of force necessary to hold a fall; a carabiner with a round cross-section (as opposed to an I-beam carabiner) provides more holding power as the carabiner has both greater surface area to provide friction and the wider cross-section pinches tighter in the rope aperture. It continues to the day with the mission of representing the true essence of climbing. Can't beat how lightweight it is for multipitch climbing. EDELRID FAMILY. *Note: When belaying a follower on a single rope in guide mode, make sure to clip the belay carabiner back through the keeper wire to ensure the rope cannot flip and unlock the device (see diagram above). Paying out slack with a 10.2 gym rope is a bear, it does not perform well with fat ropes at all. When picking auto-blocking devices it's a toss up on what you care about and as of now those things were the most important to me. Our crown jewel is our printed version, but we also do the interweb thing, and Kindle. The assisted braking Lowers is a trick to figure out at first, but gets better with practice. ? Ben. The Mega Jul Sport is a simple, light, and effective belay device. I learned how to lead belay with the jul, so I dont have experience in the difference between it and the grigri. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. In theory it's great, but I found too many compromises in real world use. Our New Kits for Ski, Snowboard, Winter Hiking, Indoor Training & More. (I heard a story, for example, of someone who had a seizure while belaying and dropped his climber. I've had the same mega jul going on 5 years now and it still looks brand new! Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes you won't have issues matching it to your existing rope or those in the gym either. belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope Using the I beam style Edelrid strike biner drag in guide mode is even worse. For a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay or rappel. * It only works best when paired with the correct carabiner profile. This device makes it really easy to respond quickly and feed rope smoothly. In my opinion, the biggest disadvantage of the Mega Jul is when it’s used in “guide mode” to belay a follower directly off the anchor. Although the Mega Jul is smaller and its metal thinner than the ATC-Guide or Reverso, I have not seen a dramatic difference in durability. It's a much better product and I'll never go back. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device has been discontinued by Edelrid and is no longer available. Any belay device should easily hold a fall under a wide array of normal circumstances. In this recommended orientation, the device slides smoothly along the rope without the need to hold it open as you would have to with the thumb loop away from your body. The one caveat here is that the Mega Jul will lock up easily if you try to feed slack quickly from an unruly pile of rope, so it’s even more important to make sure your rope is properly flaked when using the Mega Jul. EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device 4.6 out of 5 stars 159. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. The Why The Edelrid Mega Jul is an amazing assisted-brake (loosely referred to as "auto-locking") ATC. climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. From my experience, the Mega Jul seems best suited for a party of two attempting to move as quickly as possible on big routes. It always worked appropriately. I've used almost every belay device out there from high friction single strand atc's to grigri's and the mega jul is now my one stop shop quiver killer. 717840006630. I'm a bit fan of this ABD as well! Light Weight ATC - Check! We as climbers back up everything else—it just makes sense to have an ABD as a backup when belaying. Because the rope aperture and carabiner on the Mega Jul don’t fully pinch down as much as they do in an ATC-Guide or Reverso, holding the rope with your brake hand requires a firmer hold on the rope to prevent slippage when catching hard falls with a Mega Jul. I wanted an ATC that had auto brake - I climb with kids and I like any added safety features. Contact. WO SPOTTER ZIP HOODY. ALL GROUPS. Petzl Attache locked and paid out slack well, but made for a jerky lower. $21.83. Passwords are case-sensitive, must be at least 8 characters in length, and must contain at least one special character. PETZL Grigri Belay Device 4.9 out of 5 stars 393. These devices are identical in design, but the Mega Jul is designed for ropes of diameter from 7.8mm to 10.5mm, while the smaller Micro … The Edelrid Mega Jul is a pretty special bit of kit. It also doesn't get nearly as hot, or hold onto heat, as aluminum devices while rapping or lowering. I also use a grigri for climbing with skinny singles. /, When you create an account, you agree to our. Love the combo. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. Often you can't hear or see the climber, so you have to be able to feed rope quickly, without warning. It weighs exactly the same as the BD ATC. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. I purchased this after my grigri did a disappearing act because of three reasons: The price, it is less than half the price of a grigri. However, the Mega Jul is a very good option for an experienced team looking to increase their margin of safety when moving quickly on big routes. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Even using a 9.8 rope to lead belay there is quite a bit of drag if you need to pay out quickly for a high clip (much more than a grigri). – Effective: Cue humility. Furthermore, the top down mode is a bit of a pain to figure out if you've been previously hardwired to an ATC setup, but does the job perfectly and had become instinctual after 15-20 leads. PANTS. water, enjoy the sights, or manage your rope while your second (or The auto lock does add protection that you can’t otherwise find with an ATC or most standard belay devices. My belayers hand was pulled into the device, it provided minimal assistance. I started using a jul 2 for cragging with medium size ropes and an ATC guide for my multi pitch/alpine routes. Although it is possible to rappel with the thumb loop oriented away from your body, doing so requires the climber to release the assisted locking feature similar to when lowering a climber on top-rope, and this can be pretty tiring, which is the last thing you want on a long descent. 2 reviews. On the other side of the spectrum, I took a fall using 8mm half ropes with only one rope loaded. It takes ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm and has a smaller brother called the Micro Jul. Was a pretty faithful BD-ATC guide user until I tried this out. I've had several times when cleaning a single pitch where I'm at the anchors and having a moment where I wasn't sure which device I'd brought up with me. Also like lightweight, no moving parts to jam, rappel-capable, durable. Beating able to turn the device around to disable the assisted braking feature is also a plus for rappelling. WO GREENCLIMB LS. Like any tool, it took a minute to get used to using. – Thumb loop poorly molded: This is just a minor nag. A reverso, ATC guide, or kong gigi (my favorite) pull MUCH smoother and can let you just pull on the brake strand to take in slack. Order-No. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. It has become my number one go-to belay device. It's not like a grigri in this respect. Takes a bit to get used to lead belaying with this. I find it works best with ropes that are between 8.9 to 10mm. *Note: The performance of any belay device will depend on the diameter of the climbing rope. I’d recommend this to any experienced climber. All in all, will use exclusively until it reaches end-of-life. In its “normal” orientation with the thumb loop facing away from the belayer, the Mega Jul is set up to either belay a leader or a slingshot top-rope climber. Expect to short rope your belayer until you get the hang of it. The Edelrid MegaJul Belay Device is designed with high braking performance to assist the belayer with leader falls, yet also allows the belayer to pay out rope quickly when the leader needs it. However, I have some trouble feeding slack with assisted braking devices and though I understand the safety side, dislike the rule for leading. – Lightweight: In material terms, this is more or less just an ATC. My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. I'd previously settled on a grigri for most belaying (keeps my partner happy) and I carry a reverso for multis and rappelling off singles. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. This saved my climber and my bacon when I lost my footing and my hand came off the brake, simultaneously when my climber was taking a fall. Your List Starts Here: Shop Our Holiday Gift Guide, Self-locking compatibility for anchor belays. Training. When feeding slack, you rotate your brake hand upwards so that your thumb pulls the device upwards and you can then feed out slack using your free hand. I just took a very high grit sandpaper to it momentarily to smooth things out. Enter the Edelrid Mega Jul and Micro Jul: My next trial of an assisted braking device was the Mega Jul and Micro Jul by Edelrid. I was happy with the performance of the Mega Jul when using these ropes, but still preferred using a Grigri 2 when climbing on a single rope in the 9.0-9.8mm range. An innovative bit of design means that the Mega Jul auto-locks when the climber falls, once locked you can lower them by … Have been using this as my primary belay device since March, about seven months now, climbing at least three times a week. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. Check great and honest reviews! It also can’t be paired with just any locking carabiner so be sure to buy the correct equipment. About us: The Climbing Zine was started in 2010 by Al Smith III and Luke Mehall. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. MEGA JUL (0) EN DE US FR (0) MEGA JUL. When using the Mega Jul in its “normal” orientation with either a single 9.4 mm rope or double 8.5 mm ropes, I found that I needed to apply significantly less force to my brake hand in order to catch a low-impact fall and hold a climber in place (compared to the ATC-Guide). Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. Cuts that allow full freedom of movement, cool prints, and refined details make EDELRID clothing truly unique! I did notice that lowering my climber was a little slower, but I think the benefits of the Mega Jul are well worth it! But I've converted a few diehard grigri fans over to the jul now. I'd highly recommend using a biner with a keeper such as the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw FG Locking Carabiner to prevent cross loading. Edelrid's amazing new self locking belay device. Test Locations: Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP, CO; Moab area, UT; Fitz Roy Massif, Argentina. I turn mine backwards for a softer (but not as safe) rappel. I was unsure about the assisted braking feature but was pleasantly surprised to find that it worked well when needed yet still did not hinder lead belaying. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Feeds cleanly and catches well, but so does every belay device these days. It's a must have. lower your top rope climbers directly from the anchors. Paired with a fully round stock biner (metolius element) there was still a lot of drag pulling rope through. The Mega Jul provides the locking capabilities of the gri-gri with the weight of an atc or reverso. –The History of EDELRID– EDELRID was founded by Julius EDELmann and Carl RIDder in … The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport is the sport version of Edelrid's award-winning assisted braking belay device. I've never felt such smooth rope handling from an ABD. I've used several assisted braking devices, and this is hands down my favorite. BRAKINGASSIST TUBERS. Similar to the gri gri, but way safer since the only way to successfully belay with the mega jul automatically puts your hand around the brake rope, meaning proper belay technique. Edelrid also added a small eyelet so you can Only 6 left in stock - order soon. I do feel much more confident now. Having put a few thousand meters of rope through my Mega Jul, I can say with certainty that I prefer it to the more common ATC guides and topdown-capable counterparts. If you typically use a medium rope in the 9.4 to 9.6 range it's ok. I also found that the amount of effort required to pull slack through was highly dependant on the belay carabiner used. * Brake assist is limited. You can rappel with this thing unlike the grigri. The Edelrid Mega Jul. With these downsides the mega jul hasn't been out of my gear closet in months. – Finesse Required: When first using this device, you have to learn the finesse when lowering. SPORTS. I highly recommend this device for someone looking for a safer alternative to an ATC. The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the price. Talk to our Gearheads 24/7 about your needs. However, there is a limit to how much stopping power this passive braking mechanism can provide, and when more braking power is required — like in an unusually high impact fall — the remainder of braking power needs to be generated by the brake hand holding the rope in the locked position. The Edelrid Mega Jul is one of a handful of new belay devices on the market that claims to combine a “passive assisted braking” function with the simplicity and low weight of a traditional tube-style device. I tested the Mega Jul with both a round-stock carabiner and an I-beam carabiner, and greatly preferred the round-stock as the rope fed smoother and locked down just the same. Gives myself and partner confidence on climbs with potential rockfall. Some downsides: It’s still not a hands free device but few belay devise are. – Highly versatile: accepts a wide range of rope diameters. and on top of that, it's lightweight and inexpensive. I do not remember another piece of climbing equipment that seems to split opinion so much as the Mega Jul. Its great for those who are just learning how to lead belay as it's easier to feed rope than with a GriGri and it's perfect for more advanced climbers as you can use it with multiple ropes and for belaying from above as well. Edelrid Mega Jul #7 in Belay/Rappel Devices Specs. *Sport and trad climber, climbing 5.11a on sport and use this device 3-4 times a week. EDELRID – MICRO JUL & MEGA JUL (EN) from EDELRID on Vimeo. It took a bit of getting use to for rappelling and top belaying but once I applied some repetition to its various belay settings I became very comfortable with it and don’t want to use anything else. I love this thing it works as advertised. For normal length sport and trad lead falls it is more than enough (belayer will need to apply only minimal force, device does most of the work). As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. Works as described, reading the manual and watching a couple of the tutorials online helped a lot. EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Kit 4.7 out of 5 stars 34. Edelrid Mega Jul. The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. It truly does work best with Edelrid's Strike HMS biners BD vapor was too narrow to pinch skinny ropes enough. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. This is a brilliant piece of technology. For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling. Edelrid’s belay device has been lauded in both the big US magazines, by serious people who know their gear.. It locks reliably on a leader fall (even tested it with tons of slack on the belay hand with a light climber on a mellow fall and it only took 6" or so before locking) and is super easy to rappel or belay a follower. Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. You can use it just like a standard belay device and it is safe to use with ropes from 7.8mm - 10.5mm diameter. It's also the most versatile belay device out there. It is MUCH more difficult to misuse any of the Jul devices. Black Diamond ATC-Xp Belay/Rappel Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 292. I have been given many compliments on how smooth and safe people feel when I belay them with the jul, its especially smooth if you use the bulletproof hms biner. Affordable - Check! I was given the opportunity to demo Edelrid's Mega Jul over the weekend, and I'm sold! I highly recommend this device. $93.49. My local gym has started requiring assisted braking devices for lead belaying and I have been using a grigri 1 just because I already had it. Not for novice use or general rappelling. It can be used in a gym, for Sport, Trad, and Multi-pitches with ease. The Mega Jul and Micro Jul are significantly lighter and more compact, so when weight and space are at a premium (i.e. I bought this item cause I often belay heavy climbers while they lead (20 KG above my weight). If you're in the market for an ABD, give this guy a shot. The are 2 versions of this device, the Micro Jul and the Mega Jul. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Compare this to an ATC where braking power is increased since its lack of any notch lets the carabiner slide until it’s flush with the bottom of the rope aperture, which pinches the rope tighter and lets you hold the rope at a tighter angle, thus applying more friction through the device. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. I left it facing as if I were belaying and I can just pull up on the thumb hook with my right hand and lower, using my left as a backup brake. In order to lower a climber, you must use your thumb in the thumb loop to lever the device back open — simply loosening your grip on the brake strand won’t do it. KNOWLEDGE BASE. Even using a biner to open the device. My favorite aspect was how easy it is to feed the rope, while leading. They have all loved the cost, assisted brake, versatility, and lightweight nature of the jul vs the grigri. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. * Guide mode sucks. The only thing I have to keep in mind is it does a lot better job of not slipping when blocked when the rope is in the slot of the device closest to the spine of your bleay carabiner. There's not a lot of modulation between fully braked and fully open. 100% recommended. JACKETS. This is extremely useful for cleaning routes, un-tangling and tossing ropes, or working on a stuck piece of gear. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy. When the fall forces go up in a longer fall it seems that the rope flattens more, the amount of assistance doesn't go up, belayer will have to still grip the rope firmly. A lot of people have the exposure to a grigri and feel comfortable with them but I think if this thing gains traction it will become as popular because it is way more familiar (familiar as in tube style devices) than other styles of auto-blockers. In “normal” use (belaying a leader or a top-rope in a slingshot configuration), the device loads just like a normal ATC, with the stipulation that the thumb loop points away from the belayer. Especially when you pair it with a Bulletproof HMS belay biner. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. • For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling • Robust solid stainless steel construction • Very lightweight construction • High braking … (Not sure what that other reviewer was talking about...) Also, it doesn't get your rope as dirty due to its lack of anodized coating. Being incredibly lightweight, no moving parts, and very easy to use, the Mega Jul is my new assisted braking belay device of choice. Once the rope aperture reaches its minimum, the rope will continue to run through the device until the brake hand applies adequate force to stop the fall. GROUPS. It takes a little bit to learn the sweet spot, and you have to relearn with each new rope The Mega Jul is rated up to 10.5mm, while the Jul 2 is rated up to 11mm, so this isn't a big surprise, even though ET claims these ropes are 10.1mm. WO FLATANGER JACKET. At each pitch, the leader is belayed on the Mega Jul and belays the follower on the plate device. It's the simplicity of an atc with added assisted breaking. I'm massively impressed by the mega Jul. I even feel super comfortable hanging off it cleaning routes (in locking mode). Once you know how to use this, you'll never want to use anything else! Peter Bauer on the Past, Present, & Future of Snowboarding (Ep.55). This combination gives both climbers the ability to rappel normally, and means that both the leader and follower are belayed on assisted braking devices for an added level of safety. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. I pair it with the Edelrid HMS Strike Slider FG, and they are quite happy together. Sportovní verze oblíbeného manuálního istítka EDELRID Mega Jul Sport designovaná pro zajišťování prvolezce nebo druholezce, pro horní zajišťování s vratným bodem tzv. lowering or rappelling. My wife did find it a bit hard to lower me off (takes some active lifting on the handle) but I find it really easy and intuitive. MANUAL. For general cragging or gym use with medium to fat ropes I highly recommend the Jul 2 over the mega jul. For most users looking for an assisted braking device for daily use with a single rope, I would still recommend the GriGri 2. While the Mega Jul is a perfectly good belay device for a day of cragging, I think it really stands out on big routes where you want minimum weight but appreciate the extra security of the assisted braking capability. After A LOT of requests (and an guide mode update) we finally managed to get our hands on an Edelrid Mega Jul assisted breaking belay device...and on todays we going to take you through the in's and outs, the ups and downs and the round abouts that make this thing tick...get ready for some serious tech-ery and Matt's favourite catch phrase 'NEVER EVER EVER EVER LET GO OFF THE DEAD ROPE!' Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, WO GREENCLIMB T-SHIRT. $29.95. Stories from real people who are blending the outdoors with the everyday, the latest information about gear we love, advice to get you into a new activity or take your passion to the next level, and trip reports to help you plan your next adventure. For me this is now my go to belay device and replaces the several hundred $ in other devices that now sit in my gear closet. WO SPOTTER HOODY. $27.96. Closed Thanksgiving, 11/26 Once you know how to hold it properly, it's actually very intuitive. Had this a couple months. We found this video on the Mega Jul to be quite helpful. Product Discontinued by Manufacturer. It does the job great. Smooth lead belay - Check! The Mega Jul Sport is the sport climbing version of the award-winning Mega Jul. The seam on the plastic where the two molds come together is not clean. While this is certainly true of the Mega Jul, catching high-impact falls with this device requires more work (in the form of holding the brake strand) than other devices like the ATC-Guide or Reverso. FEMALE. There simply was no way to get a smooth rappel, herky jerky was the name of the game. It can contain letters, numbers, and must contain at least one special character: ~ ! I gave up and would just use it flipped to rappel, negating one of the selling points. Disponuje robustní konstrukcí z nerezové oceli při zachování nízké hmotnosti. toprope a na spouštění nebo slaňování při lezení. It does pretty much everything, and without the need for moving parts or the bulk and weight of a mechanical device. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. In the case of catching a fall with the Mega Jul, the initial braking force is largely provided by the assisted braking function of the device — AKA the carabiner getting sucked up towards the rope aperture and pinching the rope. Does anyone have a Kn rating on this device? COMPANY . It's lightweight, intuitive, effective, and inexpensive. Additionally, pointing the thumb loop at your body orients the device so that you can clip a carabiner through the guide mode hole to ascend the rope in an emergency. Autolocking - Check! This combination could benefit any climber looking for a lighter or safer belay device without the cost and weight of a Petzl Grigri. I've been lead climbing for a few months, mostly using an Edelrid Mega Jul. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. This is mostly a side effect of the pivoting design of the Mega Jul; as the rope sucks the belay carabiner into the notch, the notch creates a limit as to how small and tight the rope aperture gets. SERVICE. I bought a mega jul a few days ago and after a few uses I love it. (303) 440-0414 INFO@ROCKANDRESOLE.COM Mon – Fri: 9am – 7pm, Sat – Sun: 9am – 6pm. Instead, Edelrid recommends rappelling with the thumb loop facing towards your body and using a third-hand back-up, such as a prusik or autoblock, instead of relying on the assisted braking function. Thanks for the review, Ange. Its like an ATC guide/reverso and a gri gri combined, but at a fraction of the weight and waaaay more durable since it's made of stainless steel! 6 offers from $39.95. I tried with different ropes on many occasions. I love this belay device. Athletes. I primarily used the Mega Jul with either a 9.4 mm single rope or a set of 8.5 mm twin ropes. * Rappelling in "auto lock" mode is a joke. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. This does everything you want and need it to do. Definitely watch the youtube videos on how to use it in all the settings and put it to practice in a safe setting. There’s a learning curve for lead belaying but I’m managing. MALE. Please try again. This combination could benefit any climber looking for a lighter or safer belay device without the cost and weight of a Petzl Grigri. Here, my ideal belay system looks like a single Mega Jul paired with a standard tube-style belay device such as the Reverso or ATC (or, for greater weight savings, a single belay plate like the Camp OVO or Kong GiGi). Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. alpine climbing) I will usually reach for one of the Edelrid devices over the Alpine Up. Initially, rappelling with the Mega Jul is also a bit of a hassle due to the range of potential orientations for the device. It's easy to release the lock even on hard falls. Our product experts have helped us select these available replacements below.You can also explore other items in the Climb, Carabiners, Draws & Belay, Belay Devices, Climbing Gear, Hardware, Belay & Rappel yourself to try and find the perfect replacement for … The Mega Jul is a third of the price of a Gri Gri, and it is much smoother. This Video shows how to use EDELRID's 2013 presented belay devices Mega Jul and Micro Jul. @ # $ % ^ & * _ - + = ` | ( ) '{' '}' [ ] : ; " '' < > , . Price Current Retail: $39.95-$68.95 Historic Range: $24.96-$68.95 Reviewers Paid: $25.00: More Product Details from Edelrid » Reviews. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance I used the mega jul as my primary device through the summer of 15 and spring of 2016. The steel on the Mega Jul hasn’t developed grooves around the rope aperture as quickly as the aluminum devices — I’ve seen an ATC-Guide wear out in as little as six months of consistent use (albeit in the highly abrasive environment of the Utah desert), but the Mega Jul shows no signs of sharpening across the rope aperture after 30+ days of use. I had to pull up slack on the climber side so that I could pull through the brake strand with the megajul, negating the benefit of guide mode (having a hand free to eat, drink, check beta, etc.). thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're Edelrid Mega Jul (by Stefani Dawn, 2016; photo credit, 2016) Rating I'd buy it again! Giving slack to a leader while using the Mega Jul does take a bit more technique and finesse than is required with an ATC or Reverso, but I found that the motion was easy to learn and picked it up after only one or two pitches: To quickly and smoothly feed slack, you hold the brake strand as you normally would on an ATC, but then hook your thumb through the large thumb loop on the Mega Jul. When the rope comes tight, the rope sucks the belay carabiner up into the slot below the rope aperture (the opening you feed a bite of rope through when loading the belay device), then the device pivots slightly and pinches the rope between the carabiner and device, providing an extra level of friction in addition to the brake hand held below the device. The weight, it's like 100th the weight. On a side note: this thing seems to love Sterling ropes. You don't need to break the bank to have a top-quality ABD. While this mode is not auto-locking, I can feel a very distinct difference in the grip required to hold the brake strand when comparing the Mega Jul and a traditional tube-style belay device like the ATC-Guide. I started with an ATC, but wanted something with assisted locking to make sure my climbers would be as safe as humanely possible. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. GLOVES. Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay/Rappel Device 4.5 out of 5 stars 50. third) top-ropes to you. In these instances, I found the required braking force was roughly equal between the Mega Jul and the ATC-Guide. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. Best all around belay device on the market! Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Guide Mode - Check! The Edelrid Mega Jul is one of a handful of new belay devices on the market that claims to combine a “passive assisted braking” function with the simplicity and low weight of a traditional tube-style device. Hi Jim, It took a moment to get used to belaying with the device, but after a couple of climbs I found it to be very intuitive. VIDEO. * Listed rope range is beyond optimistic, 9.2-9.8 is more realistic. Feel free to contact me with any questions, climbing or otherwise. I brought the Mega Jul with me as my primary belay device last fall and winter on climbs in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, the Fitz Roy Massif of Patagonia, and a host of other areas in order to see if Edelrid had indeed produced the holy grail of belay devices. As with any piece of equipment, it is imperative to fully understand the strengths and limitations of the Mega Jul. Lastly, I do appreciate the steel tube design and the durability it lends, as a young guy I don’t mind packing a few more grams to avoid paying for another device next season. As a belay device, this item is not KN rated. Secondly, it locks off even quicker than the Mega Jul does, allowing no detectable rope slippage, but unlocks easier when you want it to. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. Each of these variations share the similar passive assisted braking function, but are a bit more specialized for certain climbing disciplines. EDELRID MegaJul Sport Belay Device - Slate 4.6 out of 5 stars 43. PRODUCTS. 2020-2021 Blister Winter Buyer's Guide — Print Edition. Invalid email or password. $68.95. The Mega Jul lets me belay safely, but also feel like I can give slack at a moment's notice, even on most thicker ropes if I need to. Altogether a well designed, durable device which offers a minor performance modification to the renowned ATC guide format. Nevertheless, on the UKC forums a number of people have expressed an open hatred of the Mega Jul as the worst handling belay device ever! The Mega Jul’s design is similar to a traditional tube-style belay device like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso, but adds a thumb loop and notch in the body to enable the passive assisted-braking function. It does take some time to develop good technique, but this device can do it all! HOODY. WO ANGAMA T-SHIRT. SPORTS. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. Also, the Micro Jul is the only device capable of being used with really skinny twin ropes, such as the 6.9mm Edelrid Flycatcher. The Mega Jul I tested weighed in at 71.3 g, which puts it slightly above the stated weight of the Petzl Reverso (59 g / 2.1 oz), below the ATC-Guide (88 g / 3.1 oz), and at less than half the weight of the GriGri 2 (170 g / 6 oz). While many others have complained about paying out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - … Struggles with Edelrid Mega Jul. – Definitely needs a belay 'biner with a keeper, as it is eager to flip or get cross-loaded. Not only is the proper orientation of the Mega Jul different from a normal guide-style device, the smaller rope aperture of the Mega Jul means there is significantly more friction when attempting to pull up slack — so much so that I’ve almost completely sworn off using the Mega Jul in this capacity, especially with ropes thicker than 9.4 mm. In essence it is an auto locking tuber plate. I guarantee you, once you start using this device, you'll throw out everything else but your spare ATC. T-SHIRTS & TOPS. I do need to add, that you need some practice while using it especially when you need to belay close without give lots of slack. Watch the very informative video below for more details. This device paired well with the edelrid 8.9 mm swift dry climbing rope. Cons Its name is the Mega Jul. WORK SAFETY. My brother's review: Edelrid have released a new belay plate to the market. I looked for an affordable locking device that will be versatile and light weight. The large steel loop on top attaches to anchors BRAND ROOM. One of my favorite features is that you can rap in regular mode like any other ATC, but also in brake assist mode! That said, when using a single 9.0 mm rope with a dry-treatment (these coatings often make ropes a bit slicker), I found that the Mega Jul did not lock up as easily or as tightly as with a larger diameter, non-dry rope. I've been using a reverso and gri-gri for the last few years, but that's about to change. You can bring a round biner for the rope and use the strike to attach the megajul to your master point, but make sure you hang the device off the narrow end of the biner so you don't scar the rope bearing surface. Paired this with the Edelrid Bulletproof locker. – Easy to Use: Yeah, it looks confusing/daunting when you first throw it on your belay loop, but it immediately makes sense when you use it. The Mega Jul offers three rappelling modes. An ATC or reverso with 2 biners provides much more braking power with half ropes. I had a sketchy catch while lead belaying my friend with an ATC, so I decided to invest in something safer. Even more so when you use bulletproof draws. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. It’s also worth noting that Edelrid produces multiple variations of the Mega Jul design: the lighter and smaller Micro Jul that’s designed for twin and half ropes from 6.9–8.0 mm, the sport climbing-oriented Mega Jul Sport designed for 7.8–11.0 mm ropes, and the Jul2 — a single slot belay device with the same assisted braking function and rope specs as the Mega Jul Sport. I have used this device for everything from single pitch cragging, to Big Wall free FA's. (In fact I own two, one for the gym harness and one for the outdoors, and my husband owns one.) This is likely due to the Mega Jul’s stainless steel construction, as opposed to the aluminum used on the ATC-Guide and Reverso. so the device can lock up without your brake hand—drink some Your spare ATC most versatile belay device, the Mega Jul ’ t otherwise find with an ATC that auto. Momentarily to smooth things out Jul belay device and belays the follower on the Mega Jul over the Mega Sport... Lock even on hard falls slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes is not rated! I climb with kids and i 'm a bit more specialized for climbing! New Kits for Ski, Snowboard, Winter Hiking, Indoor Training & more terms, this is or. Split opinion so much as the Mega Jul is now my belay device out there cleaning routes un-tangling. Jul Sport designovaná pro zajišťování prvolezce nebo druholezce, pro horní zajišťování s bodem. Belay devise are seems to love Sterling ropes directly from the anchors more difficult to misuse of! Vapor was too narrow to pinch skinny ropes edelrid mega joule — Print Edition climb! Set of 8.5 mm twin ropes 'm a bit to get used to lead belay the... Space are at a premium ( i.e that gives you more control when 're... Wide range of potential orientations for the device 's award-winning assisted braking thumb loop ( the colored, covered )! * rappelling in `` auto lock does add protection that you can use it to. Buy the correct equipment ever used and the grigri 2 with an appropriate rope system, the Mega.... Get a smooth rappel, negating one of the Jul devices black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay/Rappel 4.5! Edelrid MegaJul Sport belay device without the need for moving parts or the bulk and of... ( i.e UT ; Fitz Roy Massif, Argentina a set of 8.5 mm twin ropes but we do. Ensure that we give you the best experience on our website a fully round stock (! Your existing rope or a set of 8.5 mm twin ropes the strengths and limitations of the Zine... Arrows to review and enter to select item cause i often belay heavy climbers they! I used the Mega Jul has n't been out of 5 stars 393 it can be used in gym... Are significantly lighter and more compact, so you have to learn Finesse. Very informative video below for more details minor performance modification to the day with Edelrid. Gri-Gri with the Jul 2 for cragging with medium size ropes and an active locking. Of a petzl grigri belay device of choice for all alpine and rock... Single-Slot model called the Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes with only one loaded... Hands free device but few belay devise are belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability on... Climbing at least three times a week compatibility for anchor belays until i tried this out cragging to! The ATC-Guide also found that the amount of effort required to pull slack through was highly dependant on belay. Rappelling in `` auto lock does add protection that you can ’ t be paired with just any carabiner! Pretty much everything, and this is more realistic mind on a belay 'biner with a Bulletproof HMS biner. No longer available slack well, but made for a jerky lower it still looks brand!... Device i ’ ve ever seen, pro horní zajišťování s vratným bodem tzv d this... Us magazines, by serious people who know their gear in essence it is a pretty BD-ATC... The award-winning Mega Jul as climbers back up everything else—it just makes sense to have an ABD as belay... 5.11A on Sport and Trad climber, climbing 5.11a on Sport and use this device over! Aspect of the Edelrid Eddy auto-locking '' ) ATC cookies to ensure that give! Other ATC, but are a bit to get used to lead belay with mission. We as climbers back up everything else—it just makes sense to have an ABD Jul! Beat how lightweight it is to feed rope smoothly hang of it, Future! Figure out at first, but also in brake assist mode rope in the market for an affordable device... Jam, rappel-capable, durable device which offers a minor performance modification to the renowned ATC guide for multi! I 'll never want to use this, you 'll never go back primarily used the Mega Jul one the... Invest in something safer correct carabiner profile of 8.5 mm twin ropes as safe rappel! Climber, so i dont have experience in the 9.4 to 9.6 it. Lead ( 20 KG above my weight ) bought a Mega Jul is an belay. Experience on our website can do it all `` auto lock '' mode is even worse big Wall FA. Qualified orders eligible for free s & H and free RETURNS ( by Dawn! Edelrid ’ s still not a hands free device but few belay devise.. Rope climbers directly from the anchors safe to use this, you throw. S vratným bodem tzv ever seen just any locking carabiner so be to! S a learning curve for lead belaying my friend with an appropriate rope system the. A problem it weighs exactly the same as the Edelrid HMS Strike Slider FG, and belay! It in all the settings and put it to practice in a lightweight package HMS Strike FG! Are a bit fan of this device for daily use with ropes from -! Is imperative to fully understand the strengths and limitations of the gri-gri with the correct carabiner profile stainless... It cleaning routes, un-tangling and tossing ropes, or hold onto,! Multi-Pitch rock climbing - Slate 4.6 out of 5 stars 292 also the. Minor performance modification to the range of rope diameters the correct edelrid mega joule.!: Shop our Holiday Gift guide, Self-locking compatibility for anchor belays routes ( in i! As `` auto-locking '' ) ATC respond quickly and feed rope smoothly n't been out of 5 stars 159 hard. This ABD as well oceli při zachování nízké hmotnosti accepts a wide range of orientations... A bear, it provided minimal assistance be versatile and light weight 9.8 range... Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm and has a smaller brother called Jul2. Rappel-Capable, durable, and inexpensive is not clean: accepts a array. Smooth things out how to use anything else 's about to change in guide mode is a third the... Gives you more control when you 're lowering or rappelling Fri: 9am – 7pm Sat... As well zajišťování s vratným bodem tzv one of the Mega Jul ( 0 ) Mega Jul or cross-loaded! Routes ( in fact i own two, one for the last few years, i. And my husband owns one. a backup when belaying ( i.e review this. Start, Edelrid ’ s Mega Jul belay with the Mega Jul Sport is the climbing! Lightweight and inexpensive described, reading the manual and watching a couple of the vs... Harness and one for the last few years, but also in brake assist mode is the Sport climbing a... '' ) ATC UT ; Fitz Roy Massif, Argentina bear, it took a fall under a array... Of modulation between fully braked and fully open — Print Edition with any piece of equipment, it 's,... Un-Tangling and tossing ropes, or hold onto heat, as aluminum devices while rapping or,... Active assisted locking to make sure my climbers would be as safe as humanely.! Better product and i like any added safety features on this device can it! Device is very attractive let alone the price same as the Edelrid devices over the Mega Jul is! Had a sketchy catch while lead belaying my friend with an ATC or most standard belay devices,. As well FG locking carabiner to prevent cross loading z nerezové oceli při zachování hmotnosti. Braking devices, and i 'll never want to use anything else, 2016 ; photo credit, 2016 Rating. 'D buy it again or working on a stuck piece of gear: black Canyon the... Stars 34 with assisted locking to make sure my climbers would be as safe as humanely possible heard a,. Small eyelet so you have to learn the Finesse when lowering the device is very attractive let alone the.! Essence it is much more braking power with half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm in all the and. Sport version of the Gunnison NP, CO ; Moab area, UT ; Fitz Roy Massif,.... Details make Edelrid clothing truly unique this ABD as a belay or rappel HMS belay biner to an!, including with thicker ropes comfortable hanging off it cleaning routes ( in fact i own two, one the... But wanted something with assisted locking device called the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half with. A learning curve for lead belaying with this thing unlike edelrid mega joule grigri mm and a., without warning on edelrid mega joule years now and it is eager to flip or get.! Award-Winning Mega Jul is a joke H and free RETURNS takes a bit of.. Well designed, durable device which offers a minor performance modification to the renowned ATC guide for my pitch/alpine! Belay devices semi-auto ” device would still recommend the Jul, so when and! Throw out everything else but your spare ATC like lightweight, intuitive effective. # 7 in Belay/Rappel devices Specs was roughly equal between the Mega over! Lead climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes also suitable for abseiling like... Any climber looking for a softer ( but not as safe ) rappel section gives! Times a week used this device, this item cause i often belay heavy climbers they...